You can find a lot of their menu elsewhere in Hong Kong for a similar price but the mussels are outstanding, particularly the chorizo and saffron variety. The shellfish are flown in from Normandy and are in season until April so you’ve got time to gorge. Their biggest portion, 800g, could sink the Maldives so it’s a great place for sharing while their steak tartare is excellent too. The meat’s kept a bit chunky and the beef’s from America so you’ll see testosterone fly all over the table. It’s manly stuff.

The décor’s appealing but unfortunately it’s right on the street. We say 'unfortunately' because when it’s a nice day they open up the front of the restaurant and the noise from the traffic sounds like the hammer of Thor. If, like us, you have a real problem with the trigger happy horn blowing of HK taxi drivers, you might want to wait for a rainy day. The good news, however, is this kind of food is exactly what you want when it’s chilly and the heavens roar.

Musseling in.